If you want to know how to make dakos, the good news is that it takes only a handful of ingredients and about ten minutes. It looks simple, and in a way it is, but the simplicity only works with good ingredients.
To begin with, dakos started as a practical dish for Cretan farmers and shepherds, who needed food that traveled well and kept for weeks. Barley rusks, twice baked until completely dry, were the answer. Softened with a little water or tomato juice and topped with whatever was on hand, they became a full meal in the fields.
Today the dish is served the same basic way across Crete. Families though still argue over small details, like whether the tomato should be grated or chopped, and how much oregano is too much. You’ll find it on breakfast tables, taverna menus and family gatherings alike, since it works just as well as a light morning meal as it does a starter before something heavier. It travels well too, in its own low-key way. Ask ten Cretans how their yiayia made it and you’ll likely get ten slightly different answers, all of them convinced theirs is the right one.
Everyone tweaks it slightly at home, so here’s the standard version to start from.
Of these, the tomato and the cheese get the attention, but the olive oil is the ingredient doing the most work. With so few components, there is nothing to mask a flat or overly bitter oil, and nothing to compete with an exceptional one either.
Because dakos has so few ingredients, the olive oil is not a background note, it is something you taste directly, the way you would taste a good wine. A fruitier oil brings out the sweetness of the tomato. A more peppery, bitter oil balances the richness of the cheese and olives. Swap the oil and the same plate of dakos can taste like a different dish entirely.
This is exactly the detail most people never get to test at home, since most of us only ever cook with whichever bottle happens to be in the cupboard.
If you would rather see this in practice than just read about it, Pallada offers two cooking classes. One takes place at the original olive grove and mill in Chania. The other happens at the Urban Olive Mill in Athens, just a few steps from the Acropolis Museum.
Both follow the same structure. The Chania experience takes place at the source, among the olive groves and mill where Pallada’s oil is actually produced. The Athens experience brings that same journey into the city, starting in the courtyard of Agia Fotini among centuries old olive trees, with the story of Athena, Poseidon and the olive tree that gave Athens its name, before moving into a real olive mill to follow the complete production process.
From there, both visits continue the same way. Guests taste four different olive oils, guided by an expert who explains how professionals judge aroma, fruitiness, bitterness and pungency. Then comes the cooking class! Every guest makes their own Cretan style dakos using traditional barley rusks, freshly crushed tomatoes, feta, olives, oregano and sea salt, choosing which of the tasted oils to finish it with. It is a direct, edible demonstration of how much the oil changes the same dish.
Each experience runs 90 minutes, costs €35 per person, and is suitable for all ages, with free admission for children under 12.
To conclude, dakos has so few ingredients that each one matters more than it would in a more complicated dish. Once you have the rusks, the tomato, the cheese and a really good olive oil, the technique takes care of itself. Try it at home first, then, if you get the chance, come taste how it’s really done, either among the olive groves in Chania or right in the heart of Athens. Whether you’re already in Crete or visiting Athens, there’s a version close by.
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1. Can I make dakos without barley rusks?
Traditional dakos calls for barley rusks specifically, since their dryness and slightly sour flavor are part of the dish. Dry wholewheat rusks or a very dry bread can work in a pinch, though the flavor will be noticeably different.
2. What’s the best olive oil for dakos?
There is no single correct answer, since it comes down to personal taste and what you are pairing it with. A fruitier extra virgin olive oil tends to complement the sweetness of ripe tomato, while a more robust, peppery oil stands up well against feta and olives. Tasting a few side by side, the way you would at a guided tasting, is the easiest way to find your preference.
3. Is dakos served as a starter or a main?
Both, depending on the occasion. In many tavernas it usually appears as a starter or meze, while at home a larger version, with extra cheese and a side of bread, can easily work as a light main course.
4. Can dakos be made vegan?
Yes, by swapping the feta or mizithra for a plant-based option. Alternatively, you can omit it and add extra olives and perhaps some capers for saltiness. The tomato, rusk and olive oil stay exactly the same.
